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The Art of Perfume Making

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... perfumes were originally made by the romantic and ancient method called enfleurage that originated in France. The principle is the strong natural attraction that certain animal fats have for aromas - much as uncovered butter will absorb the fragrance of pineapple in a refrigerator. In the enfleurage process, sheets of glass, held in wooden frames, were coated with fat. Flowers were placed between the trays and left for as long as they remained fresh.

After many changes of flowers, the fat became saturated and was removed from the trays and placed in mechanical churns. The fat was then beaten, together with alcohol, for approximately one week, during which time the fragrance was transferred to the alcohol and formed the base of the perfume. This extract was then fortified by the addition of flower oils.

One of the most important steps in the manufacture of a fine perfume is the adding of a fixative, which enables the alcohol to retain the fragrance for a long period of time. Three natural and costly substances have been used since ancient times; Civet, Musk, and Ambergris.

After the final blending with the fixative, the perfumes are aged for periods of up to one year so that the ingredients become harmoniously combined and stable. The ageing process cannot be cut short without a corresponding loss in quality.

Today, we use essentially the same method except that we more efficiently and accurately extract the essential oils of the flowers and cedar by means of a solvent and distillation unit. The oils or 'concrete' are then diluted in accordance with closely guarded formulae to produce a remarkably faithful reproduction of original flower. The perfume is then fixed and aged as in the enfleurage process.