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Perfume is made up of alcohol, water & perfume (fragrance) oil. . It is a word that comes
from Latin per fumum, which means "through smoke" (per means through, fumum means smoke). . There are 3 major types: oriental,
floral & chypre (means "very sincere" in French). There are also many sub-variations such as woody, musky,
aquatic, spicy & fruity. . Eau de - means "water of" in French. . Eau de cologne - contains about 3-5% perfume oil. Used by men. . Aftershave lotions & splash colognes - contains about 0.5-2%
perfume oil. Used by men. . Eau de parfum - contains about 15-18% perfume oil. Used by women. . Eau de toilette - contains about 4-8% perfume oil. Used by women. . Parfum (perfume) is the strongest
of them all as it contains the most perfume oil. Use sparingly. . Scented ingredients added to perfumes include ginger, grapefruit, musk, peppercorns, mandarin peel, fig leaves, rose, watercress,
bamboo, clementine, vanilia, honeysuckle, green tea & the list goes on. . A perfume contains between 10 to more than 250 ingredients.
... perfumes were originally made by the romantic and ancient method called enfleurage that originated in France.
The principle is the strong natural attraction that certain animal fats have for aromas - much as uncovered butter will absorb
the fragrance of pineapple in a refrigerator. In the enfleurage process, sheets of glass, held in wooden frames, were coated
with fat. Flowers were placed between the trays and left for as long as they remained fresh.
After many changes of flowers, the fat became saturated and was removed from the trays and placed in mechanical
churns. The fat was then beaten, together with alcohol, for approximately one week, during which time the fragrance was transferred
to the alcohol and formed the base of the perfume. This extract was then fortified by the addition of flower oils.
One of the most important steps in the manufacture of a fine perfume is the adding of a fixative, which enables
the alcohol to retain the fragrance for a long period of time. Three natural and costly substances have been used since ancient
times; Civet, Musk, and Ambergris.
After the final blending with the fixative, the perfumes are aged for periods of up to one year so that the ingredients
become harmoniously combined and stable. The ageing process cannot be cut short without a corresponding loss in quality.
Today, we use essentially the same method except that we more efficiently and accurately extract the essential
oils of the flowers and cedar by means of a solvent and distillation unit. The oils or 'concrete' are then diluted in accordance
with closely guarded formulae to produce a remarkably faithful reproduction of original flower. The perfume is then fixed
and aged as in the enfleurage process.
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